A Guide to Olive Oil and its Use in Cooking

Olive oil has been on the dinner table of Mediaterranean peoples for at least 5,000 years. Olive oil has become popular in part because it is higher in monounsaturated fats compared with margarines typically used in the US. Medical studies have suggested this may reduce the risk of heart disease. Although Italian olive oil is best known in the United States, Spain is the leading producer of olive oil in the world and Greece leads in the production of extra-virgin olive oil.

The International Olive Oil Council (IOOC), which has 23 member nations, classifies olive oil into five different categories. The US Dept. of Agriculture does not recognize this classification system which leads to much confusion for consumers. Any olive oil in the United States can be called "virgin" or "extra-virgin". The terms used domestically are "Fancy", "Choice", "Standard", and "Substandard". There is no real correlation with this grading and the more accepted world wide grading system.

The IOOC system divides olive oil into five classifications:"Extra-Virgin", "Virgin", "Pure","Oil", and "Pomace". The grades decrease in taste and increase in acidity from the virgin to the lesser grades. Oils less than virgin are typically composed of blends of refined oil while virgin oil is "first press".

Besides the taste and acidity differences in the grades there are some significant chemical differences. Extra-virgin olive oil may have a smoke point significantly lower than common blended olive oil. The boiling point of olive oil also changes with grade. Cooking with olive oil is always a bit tricky because at 200 Farenheit Extra-Virgin oil may be significantly degraded and taste like metal. On the other hand, common grades of olive oil may tolerate temperatures up to 400 Farenheit.

Most cooking authorities, including Paolo Lafata, Chief Executive Chef for Olive Garden Restaurants, agree that each grade therefore has its uses. Extra-Virgin should never be heated. Thus it is best used for salads and other uncooked preparations. Virgin olive oil may be used for most cooking except deep frying. For deep frying use pure olive oil.

by Victorio Bolonessa